4 Jan 2012. Woke to another great day, sunshine and very little wind. We have sailed into Stromness bay overnight. This is the sight of an old whaling station, its major claim to fame is this is where Shackleton walked into after climbing and treking across South Georgia from west to east, an incredible feat having already rowed with 5 other men for over 1300 km.from Elephant island. It took them 16 days to row across some of the stormiest waters in the world in the James Caird only 6.9M long. They had to chip away at the ice on the boat to prevent it sinking under the weight. Even when they got to the island before they could land they were hit by a hurricane that nearly drove them onto the rocks. They then slept for 5 days and only 3 of them were well enough to attempt to reach a whaling station which Shackleton knew existed on the other side as he had visited there 2 years earlier. So the three set out with a length of rope and axe and some biscuits in their pockets. After 36 hours they walked into Stromness. It was now 18 months since they had seen civilization. The Endurance had been frozen in ice for months before it broke up and he left 22 men on ELephant island whild he set out save them all. But their rescue took a futher 5 months before Shackleton could get to them. His men under the command of Frank Wild had survived and as they had total faith in and admiration for Shackleton they never gave up.
Of course Wild's leadership was possibly the major factor they survived. Wild would make them pack up everyday in preparation and in his words " We must be ready for the boss"
It is ironic that when Shackleton did arrive it was in the early morning and they were not ready. Every man survived due to the efforts of both Shackleton and Wild. He did loose 3 men on the ship that was in the Ross sea that was to pick them up when they had walked across the Antarctic via the south pole. Of course they never made it as both boats where frozen in ice. The rescue of the men in Ross harbour is in itself another unbelievable story. Today we walked some of his path on Stomness. Very moving moment for everyone.
Now sailing for Grytviken where he is buried. To think that we will eat dinner tonight on the 4 Jan, 90 years since he had his last meal at the same place, as he died here 5 Jan 1922.
Arrived at Sunny Grytviken 2.30 after seeing our first baby icebergs . Landed just below the pioneer's cemetery, only 64 graves, now snowing. We were all given a nip of whisky and we stood around Shackleton and Wild's grave. Following the tradition we drank a small amount and then poured the rest onto their graves. It was a most moving and emotional moment particularly as David our leader was there for the internment of Wild's ashes in Nov. It was a moment we will never forget and everyone felt touch by the occasion. A tour of the old whaling station by a young Scotish lass who is working here for 4 months was a lot of fun. The yanks could not understand her and we had trouble. There was whaling here until 1965 and a good day was 18 whales and 200 tonne of oil. It must have been busy. Just like the bird people who get excitied at the sight of a Light-mantled sooty albatross I got excited at all the old machinery and had to point out the plate roll machine, the shearing machine and the grinder. My knowledge of a centrifuge was my crowning glory as nobody knew what they were. There are 25 people stationed here in the summer and about 5 in the winter. The museum and gift shop did well. The post office was really busy as everyone wanted to send a card with the local postmark. The girl on the counter was filling in as she was a medical doctor waiting for the research vessel she was joining to arrive. Multi skilled in these places.
Then a short 50min. walk out to the moment to Shackleton erected by Frank Wild and the crew of the Quest which is the ship that Shackleton was commanding when he had a heart attack here at 2.30 am on the 5 Jan 2022. Not a difficult walk if you discount the number of times we had to fight off the mad fur seals. The elephant seals are to fat and lazy to bother but the encounters with the fur seals is a bit hairy. We are experts at hiting rocks together, waving our arms and yelling. It is amazing to be walking all the time among seals and penguins.
Back on the ship at 6pm with 4 of the island staff for dinner. The head women down here gave a talk on the work they do. She has been here for 20 years, hard to believe or understand why or how you can live here that long. Everyone was given a free glass of wine with dinner for some reason they gave us an extra free bottle as well. They said we had been the best wine customers on the trip. Strange.
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