Graeme Ger Antarctic: Finally on South Georgia

3rd Jan. The reason we came here has arrived, South Georgia.

4.30 am call for 5 am zodiac departures. This was a non landing cruise into Elsehul cove. Very rarely is the weather OK for this trip. One of the girls who drives a zodiac has been to South Georgia 11 times and this is the first for her so we know that we are getting a special treat. Little light rain but not enough to worry us. 10 min ride into the cove and we are surrounded by Fur Seals, Penguins and flying above us are the Giant Petrels. The first sighting on land is the Macaroni Penguins and this is one of only two chances to see them. They look a lot like the rock hopper but even more orange hair on top. Ger says they seem to be using a very good jell. This is a very special moment. Lots of the Macaronis and fur seals. Further on we sight a colony of King Penguins with fur seals and southern elephant seals, these are the blobs of the beach. All the time our zodiac is surrounded by fur seals and the most number of giant petrels we have seen, just floating on the water. Not a pretty bird, much like a small Albatross and to watch them take off and try to land is entertaining. Just as our zodiac arrived back at the boat our first Chinstrap Penguin popped up beside our boat. All the way back to the ship we were chased by young fur seals who were just having fun it seemed. Back on board by 7.45 am for breakfast and up anchor to head for what is the most important sight on the trip, Salisbury Plain. Getting on and off the zodiacs was very difficult as there was a large swell all morning.

Back in the Zodiacs all kitted up again at 10 am. Onto the beach for a wet landing, not too wet and weather fine. Well this, as everyone said, is beyond description. This place is ranked as one of the 5 best sites in the world for wild life. We believe it. The bird man estimates in excess of 200,000 king penguins and any number of Fur seals, all living together. We are over awed by the sight of the number of these most beautiful King Penguins. The fact that we can just walk among them and they have no fear of us is beyond belief. The baby fur seals are cute but some of the older seals were a bit scary. Ger and I were trying to catch up with a group of walkers heading to climb above the colony who were well ahead when we were attacked by two very nasty and vicious seals. They tried to bite and it was very scary. We were told not to run as they would chase and they are much faster than us. But to stand and yell at them and wave arms and kick them was a nasty experience, they have a nasty bite that can be very infectious. Once past them and into the main area of the Penguins it was just the opposite. The penguins were not only passive but they were inquisitive and would walk right up and pick at your boots or clothes. The mothers and their chicks were so cute. Most of the chicks are still shedding their brown ugly but cute coats and are following their mums closely. Some of the older chicks who are in various stages of shedding their baby coats are very interested in us and there is always one coming up to check us out. We even saw a number of courtships foreplays that ended successfully. They say that wild life here can be described by the 4 Fs Fishing, Feeding, Flight and Reproduction. As everyone said this was one of the most special moments anyone could ever experience. No one had the ability to express how we felt. Everyone was overwhelmed and I think all pretty emotional. We knew we were experiencing a very special moment that few get to experience and we are ever likely to see again. Everyone feel truly blessed to have been here. Back on board for a late 2pm lunch. Nobody could discuss anythink but the last 2 1/2 hours but still we could not explain our feelings. Set sail again for our next zodiac trip for the day. Neither of us will ever forget this moment and we will always look back on this as a highlight of our life.

4PM Into the zodiac again for a ride into the Olav harbour. An old Whaling station, it must have been a very busy place as the ruins are extensive. We are not allowed to land here because of the conditions of the buildings. So a cruise around the harbour and inlets seeing more Pengiuns, fur seals and Sea Lions. The wild life here is amazing but is explained by the fact that South Georgia is a long way from anything and hence it is the breeding and feeding area for many species of bird and fish.

Back on the ship at 6.45, we may have missed happy hour.

Best day ever.