Last day on South Georgia

5 Jan 2012. Overnight sail to Gold Harbour. 9am kitted up and into the Zodiacs for an easy ride in but snowing and colder today so well rugged up. Beach landing here is normally like Bell's surf beach but we have again been blessed with good conditions. This beach is full of King Penguins, fur seals and elephant seals. This is the biggest group of elephant seals we have seen and some of their wallows contained at least 20 of these huge animals lying all over each other. They are forever moving to get a better spot, fighting and roaring. They are just big fat seals. The bulls grow to 4.9M and 4 tonnes. The cows only 2.8M and 400-900 kg. They have cute faces but otherwise a bit scary. They did not seem to care about us unlike the nasty young fur seals. These were forever having ago at all of us at sometime but they were generally put off with enough arm waving and yelling. The King penguins once again were more than 100,000.

They were very friendly and if you sit down or stay still they would walk right up to you, particularly the young ones that were still in their brown coats or various stages of shedding.

I had one fully grown King come up to me while I was kneeling on the ground and he came up beside me to check me out. He was well inside my arm's reach and I could see every detail of his fur with all it's magnificant and bright colours. He stayed there checking me out for over a minute. It was a moment I hope I never forget, it was special. It became strange after a few hours in that we would just walk among all the fur seals, penguins and elephant seals with out realising just how close we were. They certainly had no concern with us they just went about their life as if we were not there.

Back on board for lunch and then at 3pm back into the gear for a non landing cruise in the zodiacs around Cooper Island, a strickly out of band non landing island. Heaps of Geentoo penguins, a fair number of chin strap, an odd king and the elusive but highly abundant Macaroni. They are the largest group on South Georgia but are like to live on the most difficult rock walls that are mostly on the west side of the island. So it was great to see a few, three together on the waters edge and we had the zodiac almost on the beach so great view of them.

Back on board at 4.30 and sail to Drygalski Fjord our last stop on South Georgia. Trip up the Fjord was spectacular but visibility deteriorated and hence not great viewing. As we sat for dinner we past Cape Disappointment, named by Cook when he realised that this was an island after sailing down the east cost. He thought this was the major land mass of Antarctic.

It is also Cape Disappointment for us as this where we sail away from South Georgia which we have all enjoyed and will never forget.

Just a small glacier, this one is shrinking significantly.

More Please.  I think his name is Oliver .

Lets go fishing

If I keep eating at this rate this could be me by the time I get back 

Lets dance

Gentoo and Chinstraps

This macaroni must have got lost or is on a vacation in this bay

Just a view from our room

This is our last moments with the King Penguins

More Macaronis on vacation in this bay.

Photos of second day on South Georgia

Stromness Bay

Stromness Bay's No 1 pies supporter

 Shackleton's final path into Stromness 

Trust me

Cemetery at Grytviken

Grytviken base

Shackleton's grave

She only gave away the wiskey as it was for Shackleton

Frank Wild's recent grave

New site for a factory

At Church in Grytviken

Shackleton moument erected by Wild and the crew of The Quest the ship that he was on when he died.

Even some of the fur seals support Collingwood

Just laughting

Grytviken's No1 pies supporter.

Finally on South Georgia

3rd Jan. The reason we came here has arrived, South Georgia.

4.30 am call for 5 am zodiac departures. This was a non landing cruise into Elsehul cove. Very rarely is the weather OK for this trip. One of the girls who drives a zodiac has been to South Georgia 11 times and this is the first for her so we know that we are getting a special treat. Little light rain but not enough to worry us. 10 min ride into the cove and we are surrounded by Fur Seals, Penguins and flying above us are the Giant Petrels. The first sighting on land is the Macaroni Penguins and this is one of only two chances to see them. They look a lot like the rock hopper but even more orange hair on top. Ger says they seem to be using a very good jell. This is a very special moment. Lots of the Macaronis and fur seals. Further on we sight a colony of King Penguins with fur seals and southern elephant seals, these are the blobs of the beach. All the time our zodiac is surrounded by fur seals and the most number of giant petrels we have seen, just floating on the water. Not a pretty bird, much like a small Albatross and to watch them take off and try to land is entertaining. Just as our zodiac arrived back at the boat our first Chinstrap Penguin popped up beside our boat. All the way back to the ship we were chased by young fur seals who were just having fun it seemed. Back on board by 7.45 am for breakfast and up anchor to head for what is the most important sight on the trip, Salisbury Plain. Getting on and off the zodiacs was very difficult as there was a large swell all morning.

Back in the Zodiacs all kitted up again at 10 am. Onto the beach for a wet landing, not too wet and weather fine. Well this, as everyone said, is beyond description. This place is ranked as one of the 5 best sites in the world for wild life. We believe it. The bird man estimates in excess of 200,000 king penguins and any number of Fur seals, all living together. We are over awed by the sight of the number of these most beautiful King Penguins. The fact that we can just walk among them and they have no fear of us is beyond belief. The baby fur seals are cute but some of the older seals were a bit scary. Ger and I were trying to catch up with a group of walkers heading to climb above the colony who were well ahead when we were attacked by two very nasty and vicious seals. They tried to bite and it was very scary. We were told not to run as they would chase and they are much faster than us. But to stand and yell at them and wave arms and kick them was a nasty experience, they have a nasty bite that can be very infectious. Once past them and into the main area of the Penguins it was just the opposite. The penguins were not only passive but they were inquisitive and would walk right up and pick at your boots or clothes. The mothers and their chicks were so cute. Most of the chicks are still shedding their brown ugly but cute coats and are following their mums closely. Some of the older chicks who are in various stages of shedding their baby coats are very interested in us and there is always one coming up to check us out. We even saw a number of courtships foreplays that ended successfully. They say that wild life here can be described by the 4 Fs Fishing, Feeding, Flight and Reproduction. As everyone said this was one of the most special moments anyone could ever experience. No one had the ability to express how we felt. Everyone was overwhelmed and I think all pretty emotional. We knew we were experiencing a very special moment that few get to experience and we are ever likely to see again. Everyone feel truly blessed to have been here. Back on board for a late 2pm lunch. Nobody could discuss anythink but the last 2 1/2 hours but still we could not explain our feelings. Set sail again for our next zodiac trip for the day. Neither of us will ever forget this moment and we will always look back on this as a highlight of our life.

4PM Into the zodiac again for a ride into the Olav harbour. An old Whaling station, it must have been a very busy place as the ruins are extensive. We are not allowed to land here because of the conditions of the buildings. So a cruise around the harbour and inlets seeing more Pengiuns, fur seals and Sea Lions. The wild life here is amazing but is explained by the fact that South Georgia is a long way from anything and hence it is the breeding and feeding area for many species of bird and fish.

Back on the ship at 6.45, we may have missed happy hour.

Best day ever.

 Macaroni Penguins.  Love to nest on steep rock faces, so not easy to get too.  We were lucky

King Penguin colony as far as you can see.

King penguins with the brown ball chicks.

Lover boy makes first move

She is thinking I know what your up to.

I think I am a chance

Success.

Mothers discussing raising children.

Mothers sharing advice from Ger



Even supporters on Salisbury Plains

Some more photos

Even on the East Falklands there are Pies supporters.

New Years Eve after Dinner and now in the bar for a quite one.

Kelp Geese and even they are Black and white

Black-Browed Albatross and chick

One more day to South Georgia

2nd Jan 2012. Passed through the Antarctic convergence about 6am this morning. Water temp dropped quickly to 3 degs, air temp 6C. Some fog which is common at the convergence they tell us.

Morning talk a compulsory talk on the regulations for entry onto South Georgia. We have to vacuum clean all that we will wear or take on to the island. We need to treat our boots, walking sticks, camera tripods, vaccum our packs,, the velcro on the wet weather gear and all pockets. We then need to sign declaration that we have done so and this will be provided to the officals at Gryviken, the only place where there are few people during the summer. The officals will carry out spot checks on us to ensure we are clean. Luckily we don't have many Poms on board. This talk also covered the various but possible landings that will depend as always on the conditions. Weather is fine with little wind with some sunshine and you can walk on deck today in shirt sleeves. If all goes well we will all be up at 4.45am for a 5.15 departure on Zodiacs and then back for breakfast then on to two more spots for the day. Over three days we are hoping for a min. of 5 trips. The excitement is building and we all can't wait to get to South Georgia.

Second morning lecture was on the ecosystem below the Antarctic convergence, given by another biologist, Mark who is also the camera man. This was another mind blowing and amazing lecture. We are calling this trip The floating Antarctic University. The life down here is all about the sea, almost nothing lives off the land. Everything relies on the sea for food and the food chain starts with the plankton eaten by the Krill and nearly everything survives off the Krill. Someone has worked out that the krill of the world represents the largest mass of any living group on earth. This university is having some success with me so far.

After lunch the big vacuum cleaning job on our clothes, bags and boots in the mud room. Then onto the aftenoon lecture titled Birds in strange places by Brian, the most passionate naturalist/biologist. This guys has been everywhere in the world and under the sea looking at nature, even been to Aust a number of times. He is enthralling and informative and you cannot help but be swept up with his passion.

First sighting of whales today and of course we continue to be followed and entertained by many birds and in particular the albatross and Petrels.

Past Shag rock about 5 pm which is a milestone of the trip.

After dinner our leader, David, showed us pictures and described the commemoration that occured 5 weeks ago for the burial of Frank Wild. He may have been the greatest polar explorer of all as he is the only man to be awarded 4 polar medals and was the only explorer, in what was known as The Heroic period, to visit the Antarctic 5 times . He was not only Shackleton's right hand man but he was also used by Mawson, Scott and others. If it had not been for his leader ship on Elephant Island the 22 men would not have lived. He kept them alive for five months until Shackleton returned to save them after his epic performance.

As Shackleton died on the 5 Jan 1922 it is almost exactly 90 years since he died and we will be at his and Wild's new grave in a few days. We are emotional to be so privledged to be here at this time. Everyone is so looking forward to the next 3 days.

This is Shackleton's advertisement soliciting for crew.

MEN WANTED FOR HAZARDOUS JOURNEY.SMALL WAGES, BITTER COLD, LONG MONTHS OF COMPLETE DARKNESS, CONSTANT DANGER, SAFE RETURN DOUBTFUL, HONOUR AND RECOGNITION IN CASE OF SUCCESS.

Apparently he had 3000 applicants.

On the way to South Georgia

1st Jan 2012. As we now have 2 days of sailing to reach South Georgia, 800 miles, today is devoted to recovering from new years eve and lectures. We are amazed at the quality of the speakers on this trip. We have speakers with PhDs, those that have run a Zoo for 30 years, others that have run museums, Ray who ran the Mawson station for two year and has been to the Antarctic 18 times and the Arctic several times. It was Ray that we heard speak at the RACV club in Melbourne that convinced us to do this trip. He is very interesting and not only was he awarded the Polar Medal by the Queen but he has a mountain in the Antarctic named in his honour. Talk about a small world, he worked for Sidchrome and installed one of the machines now in our factory and his Granddaughter graduated a few weeks ago from St Finbars, our church and school. Most of the speakers/guides are extreemly well educated, highly intelligent and very informative and full of passion and fun.

Today's first lecture was the story of Shackleton's great exploites and in particular the amazing story of the disaster with his expedition on the ship Endurance. Along with Mawson's story this is one of the greatest exploites of Antarctic pioneers. To know that in a few days we will visit his grave and that of the recently interned Frank Wild is amazing. Then we had a talk by Steve, known more commonly as The Bird Man, on the birds below the Antarctic convergence. Of course birds includes penguins. Steve has a PhD and has to be one of the world experts on birds I gather.

The afternoon talk was titled Slippery Seals and fiesty Sea lions. Brian, another very impressive, knowledgeable and highly qualified naturalist/biologist, entertained and informed us on these creatures.

We rounded out the day with a photography lesson to guide us on chances of best success in the Antarctic. There are so many experts on photography and every other subject among the passengers that I feel so inadequate. Beside the leaders, I am amazed at the talent, knowledge and intelligence of the passengers on board.

Temperature is dropping as we approach the Antarctic convergence. This is where the water and air temperatures change and is never a constant spot but varies at all times. There are two distinct eco-systems above and below this point.

We are all getting excited about South Georgia and with some whale spottings today and the constant following of the Albatross, it has been a good restful day.

More photos from the Falkands